Remaking a basic is rarely straightforward. Do an excessive amount of and purists balk. Do too little, and, effectively, what’s the purpose? Patek Philippe received the steadiness good with its new Calatrava “Clous de Paris” timepiece.
When you image the archetypal watch, the Calatrava involves thoughts, with its spherical case and a clear white dial that’s centered on time — hours, minutes and seconds, nothing extra. The mannequin’s unique Ref. 96 debuted in 1932, designed to maintain with the Bauhaus precept of kind following operate. That, maybe, explains its longevity as a favourite amongst watch lovers, with a number of evolutions over the following a long time.
The newest version (Ref. 6119; accessible for $29,570 in 18-k rose or white gold), attracts on the unique mannequin in addition to Ref. 96D. That D stands for decor, referring to the guilloché-engraved hobnail sample generally known as “Clous de Paris” (actually “nail of Paris”) embellishing the bezel. Patek took that signature motif and revived it with extra oomph — giving it a wider and sharper presence framing the dial. Those ancestors additionally influenced the faceted gold utilized hour markers and dauphine-style hour and minute fingers. The 6119’s curved lugs, which improve consolation on the wrist, may also be traced to the unique Ref. 96 version, in addition to to automated Calatravas from the Nineties.
But it’s not all in regards to the previous. Fresh design tweaks have infused the flagship line with up to date aptitude. For starters, the new Calatrava has been barely upsized to a really well timed 39 mm — not too huge and never too small for at present’s tastes.
Legibility is underscored with a railway-track minute scale across the periphery of the dial, and the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock has been up to date with a four-quarter design.
Beyond aesthetics, this next-gen Calatrava has a new manual-winding engine, the Caliber 30-255 PS, which delivers an prolonged 65-hour energy reserve and is supplied with a stop-seconds function that permits you to set the time with one-second accuracy.
In an period dominated by brawny metal sport watches, the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” glides onto the scene, oozing previous, current and future class like a supreme arbiter of fashion.